Finding Health Close to Home
A Call for Localism
By Charles Eisenstein
All across America, the small towns of yesteryear are disappearing.
Those near urban areas are turn- ing into bedroom communities served
by national chain stores and malls that have replaced local businesses
and Main Street, USA, while more remote communities are drying up altogether
as the young people move away and the farming economy continues its
nosedive.
As small local businesses are replaced by national brands, communities
become colonies where people hardly know each other and where neighbors
are united not by social and economic ties, but by proximity only. Television
and car culture contribute to the breakdown of community: no longer
do we sit on the front stoop and watch people walking to the corner
store, or chat at the baseball diamond and the post office. Instead
we live our lives indoors, in private, except when we drive out of the
neighborhood to shop, work, or socialize with carefully selected friends.
Alarmed by these trends, social activists have taken up the cause of
localism and the rebuilding of community. What many of us do not realize,
however, is that localism is not just a worthy social cause, but an
important health issue as well.
COMMODITY AGRICULTURE
The skeptic might object, "What does it matter where your food
is grown? As long as it is certified organic, as long as it has ingredient
X and not ingredient Y, what’s the difference if it is grown locally
or in California?" Such a view fails to recognize two essential
truths:
- That there is a deep-seated conflict between health and a commodity-based
food system, and
- That physical health can never last long in isolation, but reflects
and is reflected by healthy communities, healthy land and healthy
relationships.
Whatever the ingredients or processing methods, and whether or not
it is organic, food from distant, anonymous producers is really nothing
more than a commodity, in that the only relationship between the producer
and the consumer is a monetary one. Because commodity trade is governed
by strict market mechanisms, cheaper producers will inevitably dominate
those bearing higher costs. This fact creates an inexorable pressure
on producers to drive down costs and cut corners, as long as the products
meet the letter of the law. For example, regulations stipulate a minimum
cage area per hen for organic eggs, so a producer motivated strictly
by cost minimization will pack them in to that limit, regardless of
whether that is sufficient for the hens’ health and well-being.
Contrast this situation with that of a small producer selling to local
customers whom he or she knows personally. Because the relationship
is not based on money alone, cost is not the only factor determining
the treatment of the hens. Producer and consumer might, for one, have
shared understandings about how hens ought to be kept; secondly, they
will typically develop a mutual trust over time. The consumer grows
to trust the producer’s integrity, and the producer trusts that
consumer will remain loyal, even when distant, mass-produced eggs might
be a few cents cheaper.
BRINGING OUT THE WORST
Anonymity tends to bring out the worst in people. It is much easier
to put out inferior products, even unhealthy products, when you cannot
see the people they affect. Commodities markets actually drive out people
who care more than they need to--they will be undersold by another
firm that cares less. That is why corporate slogans about "caring
for the customer" ring so hollow. They don’t even know you.
You are a market statistic to them, a number. While there may be saintly
people in these corporations who truly do love all humanity, even those
they have never met, such sentiments quickly degenerate into slogans
when it comes to making business decisions.
What kind of food would you rather eat: food from someone who knows
and cares about you, or food from a total stranger--a series of
strangers, in fact? Essentially, the function of laws, standards, and
regulations is to institutionalize and automate caring. They substitute
the ethics, caring, and goodwill people naturally harbor toward others
in their community with mere deterrence; that is, the fear of the consequences
of breaking the rules. Now it might be true that if we had rules comprehensive
enough and enforcement strict enough, a commodity food system could
approximate the quality of a system based on personal relationships--but
this scenario is not likely. There are always loopholes, always shortcuts,
as the incessant wrangling over organic standards demonstrates.
PASTEURIZATION
Laws requiring the pasteurization of milk force a choice between relying
on regulation or on trust. While the history of pasteurization laws
certainly reflects a lot of ignorance and greed, it is also an inevitable
consequence of the move to mass production and long-distance shipping
of milk. When milk is unpasteurized, it is important to know that the
cows are treated well and kept in a sanitary environment--easy
to ascertain at your local dairy, but impossible when the milk is coming
from thousands of dairies all over the country. Rather than attempt
a meticulous inspection of each dairy, a blanket solution--pasteurization--was
imposed. Even I, a believer in raw milk, will not buy it from a producer
whom I don’t know personally (or through a friend). I will not
buy it as a commodity.
OTHER COMPROMISES
The organic brands you buy in the supermarket probably meet the letter
of the law, but there is no incentive for their producers to go a step
beyond, because to do so would raise their costs and put them at a disadvantage
in the commodity market. That is why even the strictest laws are far
less reliable than personal relationships: the trust, earned over time,
in someone you know.
Mass production and long-distance shipping of food compromises its
quality in other ways as well by requiring product uniformity, standardization
of materials and processes, and long shelf-life. Local plant variants,
ideally suited to a given climate, may not meet the needs of factory
processing. The most flavorful and nutritious varieties of fruits and
vegetables may not be the least perishable, or perhaps they don’t
have the uniform ripening time that allows mechanical harvesting, or
perhaps they don’t ship well. Live fermented foods suffer from
short shelf life and non-uniformity from batch to batch. Whatever the
reason, local food produced by farmers and artisans who love their work
somehow tastes different--and better--than even the best "store-bought"
food.
I believe there are also energetic qualities of food, little recognized
by conventional scientists, that nurture us only if we live close to
where the food originated. Small amounts of foreign food are okay, but
when the bulk of the diet consists of foods from thousands of miles
away, disharmony eventually manifests in the body. Food is a primary
means of our connection to the earth, and when our food comes from far
away, we are less rooted to our local environment, less grounded, less
at home where we are.
INTERDEPENDENCY
This observation leads to the interdependency of health on all levels:
physical, emotional, community and ecological. It is not, for example,
mere coincidence that organic food is better for the environment as
well as for the body; each necessarily feeds back into the other. Similarly,
when we support local farmers (and by extension, the local businesses
these farmers patronize, and therefore the community as a whole), it
is not mere coincidence that the food we get will contribute to our
physical health as well as to the health of the community. On a very
practical level, local food offers the advantages implied by the foregoing
critique of mass-produced commodity food. We need not rely on impersonal
regulations and the vagaries of their enforcement, but instead can find
real people whose philosophy of food and farming is aligned with ours.
Moreover, as we get to know them and their customers, we become connected
to other producers, to practitioners of the healing arts, and to other
people who reinforce our way of life. This support is essential in a
society that beckons us with the delusory temptations of convenience
and frightens and confuses us with undependable health information from
the so-called experts.
So many people today seek "financial security," as though,
with sufficient money, we could be independent of all other people.
Indeed it is true that with enough money, you can be independent of
any specific human being--after all, you can always "pay
someone else to do it." This is a false security though, because
it merely substitutes dependence on people you know with dependence
on anonymous strangers. True and lasting health cannot come from such
"independence," which is really the attempted separation
of oneself from the world. Health, which means wholeness, comes instead
from stronger connections with others, not weaker ones, from interdependence,
not independence. Like an ecosystem where each species relies on many
others, security comes from strong mutual ties to other people.
Certainly it is better to buy organic rather than conventional produce
in the supermarket, or to ship in pastured beef from out of state if
none is locally available, but this is only a small first step toward
real food. Real food cannot be separated from real people, real land
and real life. What is real is what can be seen and heard and felt with
our own senses. It is time to begin stepping away from the world of
anonymous, distant institutions that inevitably reduce food to money.
Or you could say, it is time to get real.
About the Author
Charles Eisenstein is an author, yogi, and stay-at-home father of three boys.
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